
Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)This is really three books in one.
(1) It's a workout book. For me, this alone is worth the price. The exercises you can do at home are very convenient and helped me get into much better condition. When I have to travel I can do them in a hotel room if I have to. (When traveling, plastic bottles full of water are a pretty good substitute for the light weights recommended in the book.)
(2) It's the story of someone who has been through it all in surfing: he started in the 1950s (balsa board, no wetsuit, no leash), got into the short-board era, had to quit due to injuries, made a comeback at age 62, and is still surfing at 70. To me, this is amazing. Also, I think I recognize some of the spots he surfs, and if I'm correct he is still riding some pretty powerful waves.
(3) It's an entire philosophy of surfing, illustrated with photos and actual surf stories from past and present. I've been surfing for awhile, but I wanted something to help me understand it better. When he talks about power, you realize that he's talking about more than just being strong and in shape; it's about attitude and harmony, which is power on a higher level. His story of surfing the flash flood in Mexico is the kind of adventure that only happens once in lifetime. And I especially liked the ending of the book, where he reconnected with his childhood; this was really touching.
My summary: this is a great book for normal surfers who want to improve. I'm never going to ride 30-foot waves, I just want to surf within my limits and have a good time. The stories in the book are great, and I like the author's common-sense approach to the whole surf scene. The photos are good and they illustrate the points he's making. I'd recommend this book to anyone.
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